Elva Courier Owners Instruction Book

The Elva Courier_Page_21 v1
The Elva Courier_Page_21 v2


When fitted with a H.C. engine (compression ration 8.9:1)

The engine fitted to your Elva (Mk. II) is a highly developed unit and it is essential that you should know something about the specialised maintenance it requires if you arc to maintain it at the peak of its mechanical efficiency.’  Special recommendations on the sparking plugs, ignition settings, and fuel to be used are given by the manufacturers, and it is stressed that failures are hound to occur if these are not strictly adhered to. Particular care is needed with this engine owing to its high compression ratio, which makes it extremely sensitive to variations in fuel, ignition timing, and the heat range of the sparking plugs.

In lower compression engines a much wider range of fuels can be tolerated without causing serious damage to the engine, and ignition settings will stand variations of a reasonable amount. Also, even if the incorrect sparking plugs are used. no more damage may be incurred than burnt-out plugs or leaky valves. But with an engine having a very high compression ratio the range of fuels, sparking plugs, and ignition settings is much narrower and it is essential that the mixture should always be correct, and particularly never over weak at maximum load or power.

High-compression engines arc very sensitive to variations in spark advance (over-advance) and to fuel/air ratio (mixture). Variations in these settings will increase the combustion temperature, and if the variation is excessive pre-ignition will cause high shock waves. resulting in damage to the engine.

The engine should be decarbonized at regular intervals as excessive deposits of ash from the combustion of lubricating oil and fuel can cause pre-ignition difficulties.

Choice of fuel

The octane number of a motor fuel is an indication given by the fuel technicians of its knock resistance. High-octane fuels have been produced to improve the efficiency of engines by allowing them to operate on high compression ratios, resulting in better fuel economy and greater power. Owing to the high compression ratio of the Elva (Mk. II) engine, fuels with an octane rating below 96 are not suitable; should it be necessary to use a fuel with a lower octane number, the car must be used very carefully until the correct fuel can

be obtained.  It is recommended that Super grade fuels with an octane rating of 100 be used when optimum performance is required.

Sparking plugs

The correct grade of sparking plug for use under normal driving conditions is the Champion NS. Plugs of a lower heat range (hotter running) should not be used, otherwise pre-ignition will occur, with consequent rise in combustion temperature and resulting engine damage. For competition work or hard driving where, high output is consistently sustained the Champion N3 sparking plug should be used. This is a cooler-running plug and will ensure lower combustion temperatures and an increased margin of safety. Accumulated deposits of carbon, leaking or cracked insulators, and thin electrodes are all causes of preignition. The plugs should therefore be examined, cleaned, and adjusted at the specified intervals and defective ones renewed. New plugs should be fitted every 12,000 miles (19200 km,)

Static ignition setting

It is of the utmost importance that the correct setting should always be maintained.  It will be appreciated that any variation in the contact breaker gap will affect the ignition setting, and your particular attention is called to the 3,000 miles (4800 km.) check and adjustment of the distributor points specified in the Driver’s Handbook. After adjusting the contact breaker gap to the correct setting of .014 to .016 in. (.36 to AO mm.) it is advisable to check the ignition timing, and to correct it if necessary. An accurate static check can be carried out by a very simple electrical method. To do this, connect a 12-volt lamp between the low-tension terminal on the side of the distributor and a good earth point on the engine. With the ignition switched on and the sparking plugs removed, turn the crankshaft until the crankshaft pulley T.D.C. pointer is exactly at the correct number of degrees as stated under “GENERAL DATA” (page 2). If the ignition timing is correct the lamp will light at exactly this point. Any discrepancy in the ignition setting can be rectified by turning the Vernier adjusting nut on the distributor until the test lamp lights at the correct setting. If pinking should occur due to the use of a fuel of a lower range than our recommendations, retarding the ignition 2° to 3° can be tolerated. Under no circumstances should the ignition be advanced beyond the correct setting.

Labeled drawn diagram of the cockpit controls of the Elva Courier


Gear lever

The four forward and the reverse gears are engaged by moving the lever to the positions indicated in the illustration inset on page 5. To engage the reverse gear, move the lever to the left of the neutral position until resistance is felt, apply side pressure to the lever to overcome the resistance, and then pull it backwards to engage the gear.  Synchromesh engagement is provided on second, third and fourth gears. Ensure that the gear lever is in the neutral position before attempting to start the engine.

Brake pedal

The centre pedal operates the hydraulic brakes on all four wheels and will also operate the twin stop warning lamps when the ignition is switched on.

Clutch pedal

The left-hand pedal operates the hydraulic clutch release. Do not allow the foot to rest on the clutch pedal while driving as this will cause excessive wear of the operating mechanism.


The handbrake is situated beside the gearbox cover, and operates the rear brakes only. To operate, pull up the lever to the full extent of its travel Do not exert undue force. To release the brakes, depress the button in the end of the lever, and push downwards.

Choke or mixture control

To enrich the mixture and assist starting when the engine is cold pull out the knob marked “C” and lock it in position by turning it anti-clockwise. Turn the knob clockwise and push it inwards to the normal running position as soon as the engine is warm enough to run without the rich mixture. Never allow the engine to run for any length of time with the knob pulled out.

Seat adjustment

A lever is provided at the front of each seat and this must be pressed inwards to release the catches and allow the scat to slide.  The seat will lock in the desired position as the lever is released.

Door locks (Coupe only)

The door on the driver’s side of both the left- and right-hand-drive two-seater coupe is locked from the outside of the car, using the ignition key. The passenger door is locked by lifting the interior door handle to its uppermost position. Push the handle downwards to unlock the door.


Ignition switch

Turn the ignition switch key clockwise to switch on the ignition. Do not leave it switched on when the engine is not running, except for very short periods.  The fuel pump and gauge are brought into action by this switch, which is also the master switch for the windshield wipers and direction indicators.

Labeled photo of Elva Courier dash dials and switches

l-Revolution Indicator

2-0il Gauge and Water Temperature Gauge

3-Fuel Gauge



6-Starter Button

7-Choke Control

8-Windscreen Wiper Switch

9-Panel. Lamp Switch

10-Hcatcr Switch

11-Combined Ignition and Switch

12-Heatcr Control Flap Light


Panel lamp switch

To illuminate the instruments, pull out the switch marked “P.” The panel lamps will operate only when the vehicle lights are switched on. 

Direction indicator switch and horn push

The direction indicator switch is situated on the steering column, and incorporates the horn push. Operation of the direction indicators can only be carried out whilst the ignition is switched on. Move the switch lever in the direction of the steering wheel rotation to illuminate the appropriate front and rear flasher lamps.  To operate the horn, push the switch lever smartly inwards, taking care to keep the lever steady to avoid accidentally switching on the direction indicators.

Windshield wiper switch

Pull out the control “W” to set the wiper blades in motion. Push in the knob to switch off the motor and park the blades. The windshield wipers are self-parking and operate only when the ignition is switched on.

Headlamp beam dip switch

This is situated to the left of the clutch pedal and is foot-operated. The switch will dip the headlamp beams on one depression and raise them on the next.  To give the driver clear indication when the headlamp beams may dazzle approaching drivers a warning light in the speedometer dial glows when the headlamp beams are in the raised position.

Heater (when fitted)

To switch on heater, pull the switch marked ” H” situated on the instrument panel. Flaps are provided on the front of the heater to regulate the flow of hot air. 

Starter button

Push starter button to operate the starter motor. The button must be released smartly immediately the engine starts. If the engine docs not start at once, allow the starter motor to come to rest before pressing the button again.

Lamp switch

To switch on side lamps, _tail lamps and number plate lamp, rotate the switch to the position marked ” S “. The headlamps operate with the switch in position “H.” SEE HEADLAMP DIPSWITCH ON PAGE 8.



In addition to indicating the speed of the car, the speedometer records the trip and total distances. The trip recorder enables the distance of a particular journey to be recorded and is reset to zero by pushing upwards the knob below the instrument and turning it anti-clockwise until the figures read zero.

Main beam warning light

The warning light at the bottom of the speedometer dial glows when the headlamp main beams are in use as a reminder to dip the beams when approaching other traffic.

Engine revolution indicator

The speed of the engine is indicated by this dial, which is calibrated in hundreds of revolutions per minute. Normal use of the engine will not require speeds over 5,000 r.p.m. and great care must be taken if the needle does approach the amber sector of the dial, which commences at 5,500 r.p.m. Under favourable conditions the needle may be allowed to enter the amber section, but under no circumstances must it enter the red sector.

 Ignition warning light

The warning light at the bottom of the revolution indicator dial glows when the ignition is switched on and will go out again. when the engine is started and its speed is increased sufficiently for the dynamo to charge the battery.  Should the light glow at all engine speeds, the dynamo is not charging the battery and the wiring circuit and dynamo drive belt should be examined immediately.  Do not leave the ignition switched on for more than a few moments while the engine is stationary.

Oil pressure gauge

The pressure of the oil in the engine lubricating system as shown on the gauge should be between 30 and 80 lb./sq. in. (2.1 and 5.6 kg. /cm.’) under normal running conditions. Approximately 10lb./sq. in. (.7 kg. /cm.’) should be shown when the engine is idling.

Water temperature gauge

The temperature of the cooling water leaving the cylinder head is indicated by this gauge and should be approximately 160 to 190°F. (71 to 88°C.) when the engine is running normally. If the normal running temperature is greatly exceeded the cause must be traced and rectified immediately.

Fuel gauge

This operates only when the ignition is switched on and indicates the quantity of fuel in the tank.


Running-in speeds

The treatment given to a new car will have an important bearing on its subsequent life, and engine speeds during this early period must be limited.  The following instructions should be strictly adhered to.  During the first 500 miles (800 km.)  DO NOT exceed 45 m.p.h. (72 km.p.h.).  DO NOT operate at full throttle in any gear.  DO NOT allow the engine to labour in any gear.

Starting up

Before starting up the engine make sure that the gear lever is in the neutral position. When starting from cold pull out the choke or mixture control (marked ‘ C “), switch on the ignition and operate the starter. The engine will be set in motion and after a second or two should start up, when the starter must immediately be released. It is bad practice to keep the starter operating if the engine refuses to start as the starter takes a very heavy current from the batteries and may discharge them.  The choke control should be returned to its normal position as soon as the engine is warm enough to run evenly without its use. On no account must the engine be run for any length of time with this control pulled out or neat fuel will be drawn into the cylinders and considerable damage may be caused. It is not necessary, and in fact it is detrimental, to use the mixture or choke control when starting a warm engine.

Warming up

Research has proved that the practice of warming up an engine by allowing it to idle slowly is definitely harmful. The correct procedure is to let the engine run fairly fast, at approximately 1,000 r.p.m., so that it attains its correct working temperature as quickly as possible. Allowing the engine to work slowly in a cold state leads to excessive cylinder wear, and far less damage is done by driving the car straight on the road from cold than by letting the engine idle slowly in the garage.


Bonnet lid, sports two-seater

To raise the bonnet lid, lift up in turn the four escutcheon flaps, insert the “T” key provided into each of the budget locks, and give a quarter turn (see Illustration). Raise the lid, release the prop from the underside and locate in the socket situated beneath the scuttle.

Diagram showing how to use special tool to open the bonnet

Boot lid

This is fitted with one budget lock and escutcheon, and is opened in the same manner as the bonnet lid. Raise the lid, and support with the prop fitted to the petrol tank cover.

Photo showing where the boot release ring is located on the Elva Courier

Bonnet lock release, fixed head coupe

The bonnet is hinged at the front, and the lock is released by pulling the ring situated directly beneath the instrument panel. To re-lock the bonnet, press downwards on the rear edge until the lock is heard to engage.

Filling the fuel tank

The filler cap is situated at the rear of the car, on the right-hand side. The quantity of fuel in the tank is indicated by the fuel gauge on the instrument panel. To open the cap, turn the bar on top of the cap in an anti-clockwise direction, and lift up. Considerable loss of fuel can occur as a result of over-filling the fuel tank so that the fuel is visible in the filler tube. If this is done and the vehicle is left in the sun, expansion due to heat will cause leakage with consequent loss of and danger from exposed fuel.

When filling up, therefore:

(1) Avoid overfilling the tank so that the fuel is visible in the filler t ube.

(2) If the tank is inadvertently overfilled, take care to park the vehicle in the shade and with the filler as high as possible.

The spare wheel is housed vertically in the boot, and is secured by a metal tie-bar and nut

Spare wheel fitting, sports two-seater

The spare wheel is housed horizontally in the boot, beneath the fuel tank. To remove, release spring catches from pegs on retaining bar and pull this forward and up out of locating holes.


Fitting the hood frame

The hood frame together with the tensioning webbs is stowed in its retracted position rear of the seats. To erect pull the frame up and over the seats, engage the slots in the two bracing legs over the fixing studs and secure with the knurled locking nuts (see illustration). Fit the frame tensioning webbs by means of the front and rear lift-the-dot fastenings to the windshield and body.

Diagram showing the convertible hood frame

Fitting the hood

Lay the hood over the frame and attach it to the rear of the body using the lift-the-dot fasteners. Pull the hood taut at the front and secure with the TENEX fasteners to the top of the windshield. (When dismantling hood use reverse procedure.)

Care of the hood

(1) Never fold the hood when it is wet or damp wait until it is dry.

(2) Fold the hood neatly, keeping the rear plastic glazings to the inside to prevent them from -coming into contact with anything of an abrasive nature.

(3) Care should be taken to protect the hood from oil or grease. A suitable cover, i.e. a large polythene bag, will assist in keeping the hood in good condition.


Fitting side screen (sports two-seater)

The side screens can be fitted only when the doors are open. Engage pegs in sockets in the top of the door, and push progressively home. The side screen apron is secured to the outside of the door by means of two press-stud fasteners.

Diagram showing the side convertible screen

Stowing side screen

When not in use, the side screens should be stowed with the hood in the boot.


A pressurized cooling system is used on this vehicle and the pressure must be released gradually when removing the radiator filler cap when the system is hot.  It is advisable to protect the hands against escaping steam and then turn the cap slowly anti-clockwise until the resistance of the safety stop is felt. Leave the cap in this position until all pressure is released. Press the cap downwards against the spring to clear the safety stops and continue turning until it can be lifted off.

Frost precautions

Water, when it freezes, expands, and if precautions are not taken there is considerable risk of bursting the radiator, cylinder block, or heater (where fitted).  Such damage may be avoided by draining the cooling system when the vehicle is left (or any length of time in frosty weather, or by adding anti-freeze to the water. When a heater is fitted anti-freeze must be used as no provision is made for draining the unit. 

Before adding anti-freeze mixture, the cooling system must be drained and flushed through by inserting a hose in the filling orifice and allowing water to flow through until clean. The taps should be closed after allowing all the water to drain away and the anti-freeze should be poured in first, followed by the water.

To avoid wastage by overflow, add just sufficient water to cover the bottom of the header tank. Then run the engine until it is hot and add sufficient water to bring the surface to the correct working level. i.e. with about 1 in. (2.5 cm.) of water visible in the filler neck.

The cooling system is of the sealed type and relatively high temperatures are developed in the radiator header tank. For this reason, anti-freeze solutions having an alcohol base are unsuitable owing to their high evaporation rate producing a rapid loss of coolant and a consequent interruption of circulation.

Only anti-freeze of the ethylene glycol type incorporating the correct type of corrosion inhibitor is suitable and owners are recommended to use Bluecol, Shell, or Esso Anti-freeze. The use of any other anti-freeze that conforms to Specification B.S3151 or B.S. 3152 is also approved.

Filling the radiator

The radiator should be filled until approximately 1 in. (25 mm.) of water is visible in the filler neck. Unscrew the filler cap slowly if it is being removed while the engine is hot.  The filler cap is retained by a bayonet catch with a graduated cam which permits release of internal pressure prior to removal. A lobe on the end of the cam guards against accidental release of the cap before the internal pressure is relieved. Protect your hand against escaping steam.

Radiator photos explaining the radiator cap and drain plug

Radiator drain tap

This is situated on the near side of the radiator bottom tank. Access may be gained from beneath the car. Release the radiator filler cap carefully (see above) when draining. For complete draining of cooling system, the engine drain tap must also be opened.


Engine drain tap

To drain the water from the engine carefully release the radiator filler cap (see page 16) and open the tap on the rear right-hand side of the cylinder block. To drain the cooling system completely the radiator drain tap also must be opened.

Diagram showing the location of the cylinder block coolant drain tap


Adjusting the jets

Run the engine until it attains its normal running temperature and release the inter-carburettor throttle and mixture linkage. Set the slow-running screws on the carburettor throttle actuating levers so that the throttles are both open the same amount. This is indicated by the same suction noise at each carburettor.  Disconnect the mixture control wire from the end of the brass lever actuating the rear jet, and screw the jet adjusting nuts well downwards. Note that the jet actuating levers must be kept in contact with the jet heads the whole time. On the Coupe model, the rear carburettor jet may be adjusted by removing the brass cap nut and turning the jet with a short screwdriver.

Drawing of how to adjust the carbs using the mixture adjusting nuts

The jet adjusting nuts should now be screwed upwards slowly (thus gradually weakening the mixture) until the engine idles evenly, firing on all cylinders regularly, and running at its best speed. Check by raising each carburettor piston with the pin provided beneath the dashpot flange. If the engine speed increases momentarily the setting is right. If the engine stalls the setting is too weak. If the engine speed increases permanently it is too rich.

The mixture control wire may be reconnected when the adjustment is satisfactory, care being taken to see that the control knob has ample clearance when the jet heads are in contact with the adjusting nuts. Final adjustment for slow running is then carried out by adjusting each of the carburettor throttle lever stop screws an equal amount before reconnecting the throttle and mixture linkage.


Slow-running adjustment

Before slow-running adjustments are attempted the nut indicated by the centre arrow in the illustration below should be slackened to allow each carburettor spindle to operate independently. Adjustment to the slow-running is made by re-setting the position of the throttle lever stop screws, which are spring loaded, until gentle slow-running is attained. When the slow-running is correctly set tighten the clamping nut on the interconnecting clip.  Make sure that there is a small clearance between the mixture and throttle interconnecting lever and its abutment screw.  It is important that both carburettors are set exactly alike and you arc advised to entrust this to a Trojan Dealer.

Drawings showing the how to adjust the slow running of each carb individually

Mixture control linkage adjustment

When the mixture control knob on the instrument panel is right home there must be a small gap between the adjusting screw and the interconnecting lever on the front carburettor. This gap determines the degree of interlinkage between the throttle and the mixture control and should be set so that there is just clearance between the end of the adjusting screw and the anvil of the rocking lever linked to the jet operating lever.


Ignition adjustment

Adjustment is provided for the ignition point to enable the best setting to be attained to suit varying fuels. The adjustment nut is indicated by the lower arrow in the illustration below, and turning the nut clockwise retards the ignition.  Turning it anti-clockwise advances the ignition.  The barrel of the screwed spindle has graduations to indicate the settings.

Drawing showing how to adjust the ignition timing

Static ignition setting

The normal static ignition setting is given in the “GENERAL DATA.” The ignition point can be reset if necessary, by adjusting the knurled nut on the distributor body. Each graduation on the barrel is equal to approximately 5°of timing movement and one graduation is equal to 55 clicks on the knurled nut.  Do not disturb the pinch-clip at the base of the distributor unless absolutely necessary.


Top dead centre

The rim of the crankshaft pulley has a small groove which coincides with the Jong pointer on the timing chain case when the crankshaft is in the T.D.C. position for Nos. 1 and 4 cylinders. The other. two pointers are 5° and 10” B.T.D.C.



The battery is situated under the bonnet to the rear of the nearside wheel-arch.

Checking the specific gravity

Check the condition of the battery by taking hydrometer readings of the specific gravity of the electrolyte in each of the cells. Readings should not be taken immediately after topping up the cells. The hydrometer must be held vertical when the readings are taken. Check that the float is free and take, care not to draw in too much electrolyte.

The specific gravity readings and their indications are as follows:

                                                         For climates below                                            for climates above

                                                         90°F. (32°C.)                                                       90°F. (32°C.)


Battery fully charged                    1.270 to 1.290                                                   1.210 to 1.230   

Battery about half-discharged    1.190 to 1.210                                                   1.130 to 1.150   

Battery fully, discharged               1.110 to 1.130                                                   1.050 to l.070    

Drawing showing how to check the battery using a hydrometer

These figures are given assuming that the temperature of the solution is about 60°F. (16°C.). If the temperature of the electrolyte exceeds 60°F. (15″C.).  002 must be added to the hydrometer for each 5°F. rise to give the true specific gravity. Similarly, .002 must be subtracted from the hydrometer reading for every 5’F. below 60°F. (15°C.). The readings for all cells should ·be approximately the same. If one cell gives a reading very different from the rest it may be that acid has been spilled or has leaked from this particular cell, or there may be a short circuit between the plates, in which case the battery should be examined by a Lucas Agent. 

Monthly or every 1,000 miles (1600 km.) top up the cells with distilled water.  Do not use tap water and do not use a naked light when examining the condition of the cells. Do not overfill, and always wipe away all dirt and moisture from the top of the battery.

Never leave the battery in a discharged condition for any length of time.  Have it fully charged, and every fortnight give it a short refreshing charge to prevent any tendency for the plates to become permanently sulphated.



Fuse connecting “Al ” and “A2” This fuse protects the accessories which are connected so that they operate irrespective of whether the ignition is on or off.

Fuse connecting ” A3 ” and ” A4 “This fuse protects the accessories which are connected so that they operate only when the ignition is switched on (stop lamps, etc.).


Drawings of the location and layout of he fuse box

Spare fuses

Spare fuses are provided and it is important to use only the correct replacement fuse. The fusing value is marked on a coloured paper slip inside the glass tube of the fuse. If the new fuse blows immediately and the cause of the trouble cannot be found, have the equipment examined at a Lucas Service Depot.

Voltage regulator

This is a sealed unit which controls the charging rate of the dynamo in accordance with the needs of the battery. It requires no attention and should not be disturbed.


Headlamps (except European style)

To reach the headlamp bulb remove the rim after extracting the retaining screw from the underside, push the lamp reflector and glass assembly inwards against the springs, turn it anti-clockwise until the locating screws register with the enlarged ends of the slots, and withdraw the light unit. Depress the back shell and turn it to release the bulb. When replacing the bulb ensure that the slot in the bulb flange engages the keyway in the holder.

Drawings showing the process to replace a headlight bulb

To replace the back-shell push it home against the spring pressure and turn it

to engage the bayonet attachment.  Refit the lamp unit by positioning it so that the heads of the adjusting screws pass through the slotted holes in the flange, press the unit inwards, and turn it

clockwise as far as it will go.  Replace the dust-excluding rubber and refit the front rim, locking it in position with the retaining screw.


Headlamps (European style)

The European-type headlamps are filled with special front lenses and bulbs giving an asymmetrical light beam. Access to the bulb is achieved in the same way as for right-hand-drive cars, but the bulb is released from the reflector by withdrawing the three-pin socket and pinching the two ends of the wire retaining clip to clear the bulb flange. When replacing the bulb care must be taken to see that the rectangular pip on the bulb flange engages the slot in the reflector seating for the bulb.  Replace the spring clip with its coils resting in the base of the bulb flange and engaging the two retaining lugs on the reflector seating.

Drawings showing the process to replace a headlight bulb on a European Elva Courier

Headlamps (sealedbeam type)

Modified sealed-beam light units are now being fitted to all cars exported to the U.S.A. Headlamps that embody the modified light unit can be identified by a figure·’ 2″ moulded into the lens at the 12 o’clock position. These lamps must be aimed and set in the dip position in accordance with local regulations.  To gain access to the sealed-beam light unit remove the rim retaining screw and lift the rim off the locating lugs at the top of the headlamp shell. Slacken the three screws securing the lamp unit retaining plate, turn the plate, and remove it from the lamp unit. Withdraw the lamp unit from the shell and disengage the plug.

To refit the lamp unit, engage the three-pin plug and place the unit in the back-shell; ensure that the three lugs formed on the rear circumference of the unit engage the slots in the back-shell. Refit the lamp retaining plate, press it firmly, and rotate it in a clockwise direction to the full extent of the slotted holes. Tighten the retaining plate screws. Fit the rim over the locating lugs, press the rim downwards and inwards, and secure it with its retaining screw.

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Setting headlamps

The lamps must be set in accordance with local regulations. If adjustment is required remove the rim as described on page 25. Vertical adjustment is made by turning the screw at the top of the lamp. Horizontal adjustment can be affected by using the adjustment screw(s) on the side of the light unit.

Drawing showing how to adjust the headlights

Remember that the setting of the beams is affected by the load on the car and the consequent spring deflection. The lamps should therefore always be set with the normal load on the car. Avoid setting the main beams above horizontal· they will dazzle oncoming traffic and give inferior road illumination. 

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Front and rear flasher lamps


To reach the flasher bulb peel back the rubber flange retaining the chrome bezel using a suitable tool, i.e. a small screwdriver. Care should be taken to prevent the glass cover from falling to the ground.

Drawing to how how to change a bulb for the flasher lights

Tail and stop lamps

Illumination for tail and stop lamps is provided by a double filament bulb (21/6 Watt Lucas 380). To reach bulb remove the two securing screws retaining lamp cover. To ensure that the stop light gives the brighter light, the tail lamp bulb has offset pegs and can only be fitted in one position


Number-plate lamp

The number-plate lamp only operates when the sidelamps and tail lamps are switched on.  Twin bayonet-fixing bulbs are fitted and the cover may be removed after slackening the retaining screw.

Drawing of how to change the number plate lamp
How to change the wiper blades drawing

Windshield wiper blades

To reposition the wiped area on the glass the arm must be withdrawn from the spindle after pressing the spring retaining clip and then refitted on another spline.  To disengage a blade, pull the arm away from the windshield and pivot the blade upwards.  When fitting a new rubber withdraw the old squeegee from the flexible carrier, taking care not to lose the locating pins.



The Elva Courier lubrication diagram key


The Elva Courier lubrication diagram


Jammed starter pinion

In the event of the starter pinion becoming jammed in mesh with the flywheel, it can usually be freed by turning the starter armature by means of a spanner applied to the shaft extension at the commutator end.

The Elva Courier_Page_39 Electrical ~Equipment

Panel and warning lights

There are four lamps, illuminating the instruments, and their locations, together with the two warning lights, are shown by the arrows in the accompanying illustration.  The bulbs arc accessible from below the instrument panel.



Replacement bulbs (12volt)

                                                                                                                   Volts    Watts    Lucas No.

Headlamps (Home and Export) R.H.D. (Dip left)                           12          42/36   Prefocus 354    

Headlamps (Export and U.S.A.) L.H.D. (Dip right)                        12        36/36    Prefocus 301

Headlamps (Export Europe except France)                                      12        45/36    Prefocus 360

Sidclamp (M.C.C.)                                                                                   12        6          Prefocus 222

Stop and Tail lamp (irreversible)                                                        12        21 /6     Prefocus 380

Number plate lamp (M.C.C.)                                                               12        6          Prefocus 222

Flasher lamp S.B.C.                                                                               12        21        Prefocus 382

Dial lamps (M.E.S.)                                                                               12        2/2     



Tyre removal

Inextensible wires are incorporated in the edges of tyres. Do not attempt to stretch the edges of the tyre cover over the rim, Force is entirely unnecessary and dangerous, as it merely tends to damage the cover edges. Fitting or removing will be quite easy if the wire edges are carefully adjusted into the rim base.  If the cover edge fits tightly on the rim seating it should be freed by using the tyre levers as indicated.  Remove all valve parts to completely deflate the tyre and push both cover edges into the base of the rim at the point diametrically opposite to the valve, then lever the cover edge near the valve over the rim edge (see illustration below).  This permits the tyre valve to be pushed through the hole in the rim and the inner tube to be withdrawn for attention when required.

The Elva Courier_Page_39 Tyre removal

Tyre replacement

A similar technique has to be employed when replacing the tyre, first fitting the tyre into the rim at a point opposite to the valve and finishing the fitting in the region of the valve, keeping the beaded edge in the well-base of the rim.


Repairing tubes

Have punctures or injuries vulcanised. Ordinary patches should only be used for emergencies.

Vulcanising is absolutely essential in the case of tubes manufactured from synthetic rubber.


Valve interiors

It is advisable always to have spare interiors handy, and these are procurable suitably packed in small metal containers.  Always make sure that valve interiors are screwed well home on replacement.

Tyre valves

The airtightness of the valve depends upon the proper functioning of its interior. It may be tested for airtightness by rotating the wheel until the valve is at the top and inserting its end in an eggcup full of water. If bubbles appear the interior is faulty and should be replaced by a new one.

Checking tyre pressure

The tyre pressures should be checked and, if necessary, adjusted at least once a week. Gauges for testing tyre pressures can be bought from all reputable motor dealers.

The correct pressures are given under “GENERAL DATA.”

 Valve caps

The valve caps should be kept firmly tightened to prevent dust and water entering and damaging the valve seats. The caps also act as an additional air seal.  When they are removed for tyre inflation or removal, they should always be kept in a clean place.


Rear brake adjustment (Lockheed drum brakes)

Excessive brake pedal travel is an indication that the rear brake-shoes require adjusting. The brakes on both rear wheels must be adjusted to regain even and efficient braking. Block the front wheels and jack up each rear wheel in turn.  Fully release the hand brake. Remove the hub cover and the wheel and rotate the brake drum until the adjustment screw is visible through the small hole provided. Turn the screw in a clockwise direction until the wheel is locked, then turn back one notch only. The wheel should be free to rotate without the shoe rubbing. Adjust the other rear brake in a similar way. Adjustment of the brake shoes automatically affects the hand brake mechanism.

The Elva Courier_Page_40 Brake adjustment v1

Front brakes (Lockheed disc brakes)

Wear of the disc brake friction pads is automatically compensated for and manual adjustment is therefore not required. The brake pads can be removed for examination by pressing in the spring clips (1) and withdrawing the retaining pins (2). When the lining material has worn down. to the minimum permissible thickness of 1/16 in. (1.59 mm.) the brake pads must be renewed. Special equipment is required, and it is recommended that the fitting of new pads should be entrusted to your Dealer.


Hand brake adjustment

As previously mentioned, adjustment of the brake shoes affects the hand brake adjustment. An overriding hand brake cable adjuster is provided, and consists of ” spring loaded adjusting nut, fitted to the end of the cable which passes through the barrel on the actuating lever.

The Elva Courier_Page_41 Brake Adjustment v2

Hand brake cable lubrication

A grease nipple is provided on the hand brake cable, approximately 18 in. from the adjusting screw. This should be given three or four strokes with a grease gun filled to Ref. F. (page 58).




Check the level of water in the radiator, and top up if necessary.

Checking engine oil level (A)

The level of the oil in the engine sump is indicated by the dipstick on the right-hand side of the engine. Maintain the level at the ” MAX” mark on the dipstick and never allow it to fall below the “MIN” mark. The recommended lubricants are indicated on page 58.

The Elva Courier_Page_42 Maintenance Attention v1

Filling up with engine oil (A)

The filling orifice is on the forward end of the cylinder head cover and is provided with a quick-action cap. Clean, fresh oil is essential. The use of an engine oil to Ref. A (page 58) is recommended.


Tyre pressures

Check all tyre pressures, using a tyre gauge, and inflate, if necessary, to the recommended pressures. Ensure that the valves are fitted with screw caps, inspect the lyres for possible damage, and wipe off any oil or grease.

EVERY 1,000 MILES (1600 Km.)

Gearbox (A)

When replenishing the gearbox care must be taken to ensure that it is not filled above the “HTGH” mark on the dipstick. If •the level is too high oil may get into the clutch case and cause clutch slip.

The combined filler plugs and dipstick is located beneath the rubber plug on the gearbox cover.

The Elva Courier_Page_42 Maintenance Attention v2

Rear axle (B)

Check the level, and top up if necessary. The filler plug is located on the rear side of the axle and also serves as an oil level indicator. After topping up allow time for any surplus oil to run out should too much have been injected. This is most important, as if the axle is overfilled the lubricant may leak through to the brake linings and lessen their efficiency.

NOTE. – It is essential that only Hypoid oil be used in the rear axle (sec page 58).

EVERY 1,000 MILES (1600 Km.)

Carburettor dampers (D)

Unscrew the oil cap at the top of each suction chamber, pour in a small quantity of thin engine oil, and replace the caps. Under no circumstances should a heavybodied lubricant be used. 

Failure to lubricate the piston dampers will cause the pistons to flutter and reduce acceleration. An oil indicated under Ref. D (on page 58) should be used.

The Elva Courier_Page_43 Maintenance Attention v3

Brake and clutch fluid (Lockheed brakes)

The master cylinders are mounted to the rear of the wheel arch on the sports two-seater and forward of the engine bulkhead on the coupe.  Remove the screw caps from the clutch, front and rear master cylinders and check level of fluid in each.

EVERY 1,000 MILES (1600 Km.)

The fluid level should be -} in. (6.3 mm.) below the bottom of the filler neck and never above this.

The use of Lockheed Genuine Brake Fluid is recommended. If this is not available an alternative fluid conforming to Specification S.A.E. 70.R3 should be used.

The Elva Courier_Page_43 Maintenance Attention v4

EVERY 3,000 MILES (4800 Km.)

Draining the sump (A)

Drain the oil from the engine sump and refill with new oil to Ref. A, page 58. The drain plug is on the right-hand side of the sump and should be removed after a journey while the oil is still warm and will drain easily.

The sump capacity is shown on page 3.

The Elva Courier_Page_44 Maintenance Attention v5

Sparking plugs

The sparking plugs should be cleaned preferably by a service station with a special air-blast service unit, and the gaps should’ be reset to .025 in. (.64 mm.).  Use a special Champion sparking plug gauge and setting tool and move the side wire on the plug, never the centre one. Plugs which are oily, dirty, or corroded cannot give good results.  Fit a set of new plugs every 12,000 miles (I 9200 km.).

EVERY 3,000 MILES (4800 Km.)

Care of tyres

Every 3,000 miles (4800 km.) the running position of the tyres should be changed and the spare should come into use. This will equalise the tyre wear of the front and rear wheels and prolong the life of the tyres.  Inspect the tyres frequently and remove any piece of flint, stone, or glass which may have become embedded in the covers.

Air cleaners (S.U,)

Wash the filter elements in fuel and allow to dry, Re-oil the elements with S.A.E. 20 engine oil and allow to drain before reassembling. When servicing it is only necessary to withdraw the two hexagon-headed screws and lift off the outer cover to release the corrugated element.

EVERY 3,000 MILES (4800 Km.)

Air cleaner (A.C.)

Remove air cleaner and wash in clean petrol, and allow to dry. Soak element with S.A.E. 20 engine oil and allow to drain before refilling.

Dynamo driving belt

Inspect the dynamo driving belt and adjust if necessary, to take up any slackness.  Care should be taken to avoid overtightening the belt, otherwise undue strain will be thrown on the dynamo bearings. The belt tension is adjusted by slackening the bolts of the dynamo cradle and moving the dynamo, the required amount by hand. Tighten up the bolts thoroughly, particularly the one passing through the slotted adjusting link (inset).

The Elva Courier_Page_45 Maintenance Attention v7

Disc brakes

Examine the disc brake friction pads for wear. Wear on the pads is automatically compensated for during braking operations and manual adjustment is not therefore required. If the wear on one pad is greater than on the other their operating positions should be changed over. When Lockheed pads have worn to a minimum thickness of 1/16 in. (1.5875 mm.) the pads must be renewed.

For a complete summary of the attention to be given every 3,000 miles (4800km.) sec also page 53.

EVERY 3,000 MILES (4800 Km.)

Distributor cam bearing (D)

Lift the rotor off the top of the spindle by pulling it squarely and add a few drops of thin engine oil to Ref. D (page 58) to the cam bearing. Do not remove the screw which is exposed.  There is a clearance between the screw and the inner face of the spindle for the oil to pass.  Replace the rotor with its drive Jug correctly engaging the spindle slot and push it onto the shaft as far as it will go.

Distributor cam (F)

Lightly smear the cam with a very small amount of grease to Ref. F (page 58), or if this is not available clean engine oil can be used.

The Elva Courier_Page_45 Maintenance Attention v8

Automatic timing control (D)

Carefully add a few drops of thin engine oil to Ref. D (page 58) through the hole in the contact breaker base through which the cam passes. Do not allow oil to get on or near the contacts. Do not over-oil.

Contact breaker: · pivot (D)

Add a spot of engine oil to Ref. D (page 58) to the moving contact pivot pin.


EVERY 6,000 MILES (9600 Km.)

Contact breaker gap

Check the contact gap with a .016 in. (40 mm.) feeler gauge.  Turn the crank-shaft until the contacts are fully open and the gauge should then be a sliding fit.  If the gap varies appreciably, slacken the contact plate screw, insert a screw driver in the cut-out, and move the plate until the gap is correct.  Retighten the screw.

If the contacts appear pitted or blackened, they should be removed and cleaned with a fine carborundum stone or fine emery-cloth.  To release the contacts, remove the nut, washer, and insulator from the retaining post and lift off the moving contact and the two insulating washers.  Take out the two screw and remove the contact plate.  Set the gap after replacing.  Thoroughly wipe the distributor cap to ensure that it is clean.

The Elva Courier_Page_46 Maintenance Attention v9

Water pump 

Remove the plug on the water pump casing and add a small quantity. of S.A.E. 140 oil. The oiling of the pump must be done very sparingly, otherwise oil will flow past the bearings onto the face of the carbon sealing ring and impair its efficiency. 

EVERY 6,000 MILES (9600 Km.)

Carburetter Filters

To ensure a free flow of fuel to the float-chambers the filters should remove and thoroughly cleaned with a stiff brush and fuel.  Never use rag.  The filters are situated behind the banjo-type union at the junction of the fuel pipe to each float-chamber lid.  Replace the filters with their helical springs first and their open ends outwards.  Replace the fibre washers correctly.

The Elva Courier_Page_46 Maintenance Attention v10

Fuel pump filter

Clean off the fuel pump, withdraw the filter, and clean it thoroughly in fuel.  The filter is inserted into the bottom of the pump body and is released by unscrewing the hexagon plug.  When cleaning the filter do not use rag – always use a stiff brush and clean fuel.  The fuel pump is fitted beneath the bonnet on the front chassis cross member

EVERY 6,000 MILES (9600 Km.)

Valve rockers

Remove the valve rocker cover and test the clearance between the rocker arms and the valve stems by inserting a .015 in. (.38 mm.) feeler gauge between them. The blade should be a sliding fit when the valves are tested in the following order while the engine is hot:

Test No. 1 valve with No. 8 fully open  

  “     “      3    “       “      “   6       “      “           

  “     “      5    “       “      “   4       “      “      

  “     “      2    “       “      “   7       “      “          

Test No. 8 valve with No. 1 fully open

     “    “    6    “         “     “   3       “        “

     “    “    4    “         “     “   5       “        “

     “    “    7    “         “     “   2       “        “ 

To adjust the clearance slacken the adjusting screw locknut on the opposite end of the rocker arm and rotate the screw clockwise to reduce the clearance or anti-clockwise to increase it. Retighten the locknut when the clearance is correct, holding the screw against rotation with a screwdriver.

The Elva Courier_Page_47 Maintenance Attention v11

Oil filter

The external oil filter is of the renewable-element type and is located on the right-hand side of the cylinder block. The filter is released by undoing the central bolt securing the filter body to the filter head. When fitting the new element make sure that the sealing washer for the filter body is in good condition and that the body is correctly fitted.

EVERY 6,000 MILES (9600 Km.)

Draining the gearbox (A) Remove the gearbox drain plug and drain off the oil. When the gearbox has been drained completely 4-½ Imperial pints (2.56 litres. 5.6 U.S. pints) of oil to Ref. A. (page 58) are required to refill it. The oil should be poured in through the filler plug

The Elva Courier_Page_47 Maintenance Attention v12

Rear Axle (B) Drain the oil from the rear axle and refill with fresh oil. The most suitable time for draining is after a long journey, whilst the oil is still warm. Clean the drain plug before it is replaced and tightened. Approximately 2¼ pints (1.28 litres, 2.7 U.S. pints) of oil are required to refill the axle.

For a complete summary of the attention to be given every 6,000 miles (9600

km.) see also page 53.

EVERY 12,000 MILES (19200 Km.)

Dynamo lubrication (D)

Add two drops of engine oil to Ref. D (page 58) in the lubrication hole in the centre of the rear end bearing plate.

Do not over-oil.

The Elva Courier_Page_48 Maintenance Attention v13

Engine-flushing (A)

Remove the engine sum1J drain plug and allow the old oil to drain completely.  Replace the plug and pour in through the engine filler cap approximately 4 pints (2.27 litres, 4¾ U.S. pints) of flushing oil. A flushing oil supplied by one of the recommended lubricant manufacturers (page 58) should be used. Run the engine at fast tick-over speed for 2± to 3 minutes. After stopping the engine special care must be taken to ensure complete drainage of the flushing oil.  Replace the sump drain plug and fill the engine with oil to Ref. A (page 58).

Sparking plugs

New sparking plugs should be fitted every 12,000 miles (I 9200 km.). Ensure that only the recommended plugs are used and that they are set to the correct gap (see page 43) before installation.

Speedometer and revolution indicator cables

Every 12,000 miles (19200 km.) the speedometer and revolution indicator outer casings should be unscrewed from the instruments and the inner cables extracted and lubricated sparingly with grease lo Ref. F; oil must not be used.  After returning the inner cables into their outer casings the upper ends should be withdrawn approximately 8 in. (20 cm.) and the surface grease wiped off before reconnecting them to the instruments.

For a complete summary of the attention to be given every 12,000 miles (19200 km) see also page 54.



During the early life of the car, soon after it has completed 500 miles (800 km.), you are entitled to have it inspected free of charge by the Dealer from whom you purchased it, or, if this should not be convenient, by any other Dealer by arrangement. This attention given during the critical period in the life of the car makes all the difference to its subsequent life and performance.

This service includes:

  1. Engine

Tighten cylinder head and manifold nuts to recommended pressures.  Check tightness of valve rocker shaft brackets to recommended pressures.  Check valve rocker clearances. and reset if necessary.  Tighten fan belt if necessary.  Check all water connection, and tighten clips if necessary.  Examine and clean carburettors. and reset slow-running adjustment if necessary.

  1. Ignition

Examine, and adjust if necessary, sparking plugs and distributor points.  Check working of automatic ignition control and, if necessary, reset ignition timing.

  1. Clutch

Check clutch pedal, and bleed if necessary.

  1. Steering

Check front wheel alignment and steering connections: adjust if necessary.

  1. Brakes

Check braking system functionally, and bleed lines if necessary.  Check fluid level in master cylinders, and top up if necessary.

  1. Hydraulic dampers

Inspect hydraulic dampers for leaks.

  1. Body

Check doors for ease in opening and closing.  If necessary, lightly smear with a suitable lubricating agent all dovetails and striking plates.

  1. Electrical

Check electrical system functionally.  Examine battery and top up to correct level with distilled water if necessary.  Clean and tighten terminals.

  1. General

Check tightness of universal joint nuts, spring dips.

  1. Lubrication

Drain oil front engine. gearbox, and rear axle and refill.  Oil and grease all points of car.

  1. Wheels and tyres

Test tyres for correct pressures.  Check tightness of wheel nuts.


Regular servicing could well enhance the value of Your vehicle in the eyes of a prospective purchaser.


Inspect oil level in crankcase. Top up if necessary.  See that radiator is full of water.


Test tyre pressures.

1,000 miles (1600 km.) service

  1. Engine

Top up carburettor piston dashpots.  Lubricate carburettor controls.  Top up radiator.

  1. Clutch

Check level of fluid in the hydraulic clutch master cylinder.

  1. Brakes

Check brake pedal. and report if adjustment is required.  Make visual inspection of brake lines and pipes.  Check level of fluid in hydraulic brake master cylinder,

  1. Hydraulic dampers

Examine all hydraulic dampers for leaks.

  1. Electrical

Check battery cell specific gravity readings and top up to correct level.

  1. Lubrication

Top up engine, gearbox, and rear axle oil levels.  Lubricate all grease nipples (except steering rack and opinion).

  1. Wheels and tyres

Check tyre pressures.  Check wheel nuts for tightness.


2,000 miles (3200 km.) service

Carry out the 1,000 miles (1600 km.) service.

3,000 miles (4800 km.) service

  1. Engine

Top up carburettor piston dashpots.  Lubricate carburettor controls.  Top up radiator.  Check dynamo drive belt tension.  Clean and re-oil air cleaner elements.

  1. Ignition

Check and adjust if necessary, distributor contact points.  Clean and adjust sparking plugs.

  1. Clutch

Check level of fluid in the hydraulic clutch master cylinder.

  1. Brakes

Check brakes, and adjust if necessary.  Make visual inspection of brake lines and

pipes.  Check level of fluid in the hydraulic brake master cylinder(s).

Inspect the disc brake friction pads and report if attention is required.

  1. Hydraulic dampers

Examine all hydraulic dampers for leaks.

  1. Body

Lubricate door locks, hinges, bonnet lock, and operating 111echanism.

  1. Electrical

Check battery cell specific gravity readings and top up to correct level.

  1. Lubrication

Change engine oil.  Top up gearbox and rear axle oil levels.  Lubricate all grease nipples (except steering rack and pinion).

  1. Wheels and tyres

Change wheels round diagonally, including spare, to regularise tyre wear.  Check tyre pressures.

4,000 miles (6400 km.) service

Carry out the 1,000 miles (1600 km.) service.

 5,000 miles (8000 Jrm.) service

Carry out the 1,000 miles (1600 km.) service.

6,000 miles (9600 km.) service

  1. Engine

Top up carburettor piston dashpots.  Lubricate carburettor controls.  Top up radiator.  Check dynamo drive belt tension.  Lubricate water pump sparingly.  Check valve rocker c1earances, and adjust if necessary.  Clean and re-oil air cleaner elements.  Clean carburettor and fuel pump filters

  1. Ignition

Check automatic ignition control, lubricate distributor drive shaft and can1 and advance mechanism.  Check, and adjust if necessary, distributor contact points.  Clean and adjust sparking plugs.

  1. Clutch

Check level of fluid in the hydraulic clutch master cylinder.

  1. Brakes

Check brakes, and adjust if necessary.  Make visual inspection of brake lines and pipes. Check level of fluid in the hydraulic brake master cylinder(s).  Inspect the disc brake friction pads and report if attention is required.

  1. Hydraulic dampers

Examine all hydraulic dampers for leaks

  1. Body

Check, and tighten if necessary, door hinges and striker plate securing screws.  Lubricate door locks, hinges, bonnet lock, and operating mechanisn1.

  1. Electrical

Check battery cell specific gravity readings and top up to correct level.

  1. Lubrication

Change oil in engine, gearbox and rear axle.  Fit new oil filter element.  Lubricate all grease nipples (except steering 1ack and pinion).  Repack front hub caps with grease.

  1. Wheels and tyres

Change road wheels round diagonally including spare to regularise tyre wear. Check tyre pressures.  Check wheel alignment.

7,000 miles (11200 km.) service

Carry out the 1,000 miles (1600 km.) service.

 8,000 miles (12800 km.) service

Carry out the 1,000 miles (1600 km.) service.


9,000 miles (14400 km.) service

Carry out the 3,000 miles (4800 km.) service.

10,000 miles (16000 km.) service

Carry out the 1,000 miles (1600 km.) service.

11,000 miles (17600 km.) service

Carry out the 1,000 miles (1600 km.) service.

 12,000 miles (19200 km.) service

  1. Engine

Remove carburettor suction chambers and pistons, clean, reassemble, and top up.  Remove carburettor float-chambers, empty sediment, and refit.  Lubricate carburettor controls.  Check valve rocker clearances, and adjust if necessary.  Clean and re-oil air cleaner elements.  Check dynamo drive belt tension.  Lubricate water pump sparingly.  Clean carburettors and fuel pump filters.

  1. Ignition

Check automatic ignition control, lubricate distributor drive shaft and cam and advance mechanism.  Clean and adjust distributor contact points.  Fit new sparking plugs.

  1. Clutch

Check level of fluid in the hydraulic clutch master cylinder

  1. Steering

Check steering and suspension moving parts for wear.

  1. Brakes

Check brakes. and adjust if necessary.  Make visual inspection of brake lines and

pipes.  Check level of fluid in the hydraulic brake

  1. Hydraulic dampers

Examine all hydraulic dampers for leaks. master cylinder(s).

  1. Radiator

Drain. flush out. and refill radiator.

  1. Body

Check. and tighten if necessary, door hinges and striker plate securing screws.  Lubricate door locks. and safety catches, hinges, bonnet lock and operating mechanism.

  1. Electrical

Check battery cell specific gravity readings and top up to correct level.  Lubricate dynamo bearing.

  1. Lubrication

Drain engine. flush out with flushing oil, and refill with fresh oil.  Change oil in gearbox and rear axle.  Fit new oil filter element.  Lubricate steering rack and pinion.  Lubricate speedometer and revolution indicator cables with grease.  Lubricate all grease nipples.  Repack front hub caps with grease.

  1. Wheels and tyres

Change road wheels round diagonally. Including spare, to regularise tyre wear.  Check tyre pressures.  Check wheel alignment.

  1. Headlamps

Check headlamp beam setting. and reset if necessary.

24,000 miles (38403 km.) service

Carry out the 12,000 miles (19200 km.) service, with the following amendment:


Remove engine sump and pick-up strainer, clean, and reassemble. filling with fresh oil.



Your attention is drawn to the following points, compliance with which, we suggest, will prove mutually beneficial.


(a) Completion of the Warranty Certificate “tear-off” slip at the time of vehicle purchase when sent to the Factory will ensure registration of ownership by Trojan Ltd.

(b) Retention of the Owner’s portion of the Certificate. signed by the Distributor and Owner, in a safe place in the vehicle (by quickly establishing ownership) will help to expedite any adjustments under Warranty if such adjustments are required to be carried out by a Trojan Dealer other than the supplier of your vehicle.


Claims for the replacement of materia1 or parts under Warranty must always be submitted to the supplying Dealer, or, when this is not possible, to the nearest Dealer or Trojan Ltd., informing them of the Vendor’s name and address.  Except in cases of emergency Warranty work should always be carried out by a franchise holder, since this ensures that no doubt can arise in connection with circumstances of the vehicle history when claims are put forward.


Service vouchers (applicable in the United Kingdom only) are produced for your convenience, and the use of these is the best safeguard against the possibility of abnormal repair bills at a later date.


When Service Parts are required insist on genuine factory replacement parts as these are designed and tested for your vehicle and in addition warranted for 12 months by Trojan Ltd. ONLY WHEN GENUINE PARTS ARE USED CAN TROJAN LTD. ACCEPT RESPONSIBILITY.